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On the quiet outskirts of Yamagata City, in the foothills of the Murakizawa district, stands a temple that locals affectionately call the “Hydrangea Temple.” Its formal name is Deshio Monjudo. From late June to mid-July, the long stone stairway leading to its main hall is lined with about 2,500 hydrangea plants in roughly 40 varieties. The temple is only a half-hour drive from JR Yamagata Station, yet it feels like a world away from the city.

?Kobo Daishi and the Legend of the Salt Spring
Deshio Monjudo, a temple of the Daigo school of Shingon Buddhism, is said to have been opened some 1,200 years ago by Kobo Daishi. Better known as Kukai (774–835), he founded Shingon Buddhism and is believed to have travelled across Japan, leaving many legends behind. In Murakizawa, the story goes that villagers were struggling with a shortage of salt. Kobo Daishi performed a ritual and dug into the ground, and salt water welled up. The resulting pond, Kobo no Ike, lies on the grounds of the local community hall and is counted among the “Seven Wonders of Murakizawa.” The name Deshio (“emerging salt”) is said to come from this legend, and similar tales of the monk creating springs are told in other parts of Yamagata as well.

?A Shared Tree and a Hall on the Move
The temple’s principal image is Monju Bosatsu (Manjushri), the bodhisattva of wisdom. According to tradition, it was carved from the same tree as the Monju statue at Kameoka Monju in Takahata Town. Kameoka received the base of the tree and is called “Moto-ki” (base of the tree) Monju, while Deshio’s statue, made from the upper part, is known in local tradition as “Waka-ki” (young tree) Monju. The hall once stood on the summit of Mt. Monju. After Shiba Kaneyori, the first lord of Yamagata Castle and ancestor of the Mogami clan, arrived in 1356, it was moved partway down the mountain and rebuilt. Further reconstruction followed in 1713, and the temple gate was added in 1772. Because Monju is revered as a deity of learning, students visit to pray for success in entrance exams.

?Up the Hydrangea Stairway
The stone stairway stretches 515 meters, framed by blue and purple blooms. Look closely among the flowers and you will spot moss-covered stone Buddhas. Partway up stand the “Married-Couple Cedars” (Meoto-sugi), two roughly 300-year-old trees that fused into one and came to symbolize harmony in marriage and good relationships. In 2024, the upper part was cut down because age and lightning damage had made it a risk of falling, but the lower part remains. Blooms in the upper section of stairs open later, extending the viewing season, and through the trees you can glimpse Yamagata’s cityscape far below. During the annual Murakizawa Hydrangea Festival, held from late June to mid-July, the path is also illuminated after dark.

?Planning Your Visit
By car, the temple is about 15 minutes from the Yamagata-Chuo Interchange on the Tohoku-Chuo Expressway, with parking for about 20 vehicles. The stone paths are uneven and can be slippery after rain, so wear sturdy shoes. Nearby attractions include Domeki Onsen.