Around the crack of dawn, a line begins forming at a strip mall in Hyattsville, Maryland, as residents ranging from students to delivery workers and federal contractors wait to sign up for food assistance.

“Right now, it’s a lot — paying rent, buying food,” said Shirleyann Desormeaux, a chef supporting four children in her household.

Even with two incomes, “it’s still not enough,” the 58-year-old added.