As a child, the melody of a passing ice cream truck was always exciting. As an adult in Japan, however, the closest I get to that feeling is hearing the mantra-like hawking of a kei truck lumbering through my neighbor with yaki-imo (baked sweet potatoes) roasting in the back.
You can eat yaki-imo as is for a delicious treat, but with a little effort, you can turn these morsels into a fun and easy introduction to the world of wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets).
Alongside the wider availability of refined sugar in the Edo Period (1603-1868), there came a craze for 测ō办补苍. These stiff jellies were usually made with adzuki beans and agar, though various versions including sweet potato imo-测ō办补苍 exist. With the simple addition of a few spices, this traditional Japanese treat can be transported to the Thanksgiving table — perfect if you’re already sick of pumpkin but haven’t yet had your fill of spice.
While 测ō办补苍 is usually set quite solid with kanten agar, there is something to be said for using it more sparingly for a softer finished product. While it may not slice perfectly, leftovers are spreadable and can be repurposed as a fun toast topping or filling for other dishes, such as dorayaki castella sandwiches. Pair it with your favorite black tea.
A note: This recipe begins with raw potatoes, but if you have a roasted one, skip ahead to step 3.
Serves 8-12
Cook time: 20 minutes plus cooling time
Ingredients:
- 200 grams sweet potatoes
- 10 milliliters rice vinegar
- 250 milliliters water
- 2 grams kanten (agar) powder
- 100 grams white sugar
- 5 grams cinnamon powder
- 2.5 grams ginger powder
- 2.5 grams nutmeg powder
Directions:
1. Peel and roughly chop your sweet potato, then place it in a large bowl and cover with water and vinegar. Let this sit for 30 minutes to an hour.
2. Drain your sweet potato from the water. Place it covered into a microwave at 1,000 watts, then cook for around five minutes. Once your potatoes are softened, mash or blend them.
3. In a 1-liter saucepan, mix 250 milliliters of water with your kanten powder, sugar, all spices and the mashed or blended sweet potato, mixing until mostly smooth.
4. Bring this mixture to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for four minutes while stirring constantly so it doesn’t stick or burn.
5. Pour the mixture into a 500-ml square-sided mold. Let it cool on the countertop, then refrigerate for at least an hour. When set, slice or cube as a light dessert or snack with afternoon tea.
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