Rishiri, Hokkaido – It’s 2 a.m. in late July on Rishiri Island, and steady rain beats at my window. A text comes from my contact: “The weather is too uncertain. We’ll wait until 4 a.m. to make the call.”
Finally, at 5:30 a.m. — an unusually late start for the island’s kombu harvest — the day begins.
The crew unloads ropes of kelp from the boat and heads for the drying grounds. They mutter with concern; they may not get the sunshine needed for a successful drying day. But the island has been plagued by rain and clouds for two weeks and they need to get on with it: Harvest season is nearly over.
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